Pedal assist levels, often referred to as PAS or assist modes, are the different settings on an electric bicycle that control how much power the motor provides to supplement your pedaling effort.

Think of it like a volume knob for your effort—turn it up, and the motor gives you a bigger boost, making climbs easier and commutes faster.

Turn it down, and you rely more on your own leg power, conserving battery and getting a better workout.

These levels are fundamental to the e-bike experience, allowing riders to customize their ride from a light assist that feels like a subtle tailwind to a powerful push that flattens hills and extends range.

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Understanding how these levels work is key to maximizing your e-bike’s potential, whether you’re commuting, trail riding, or simply enjoying a leisurely spin.

It’s all about finding that sweet spot between motor assistance and personal input, tailoring the ride to your fitness level, terrain, and desired battery life.

Here’s a comparison of top e-bike products that excel in pedal assist functionality:

Product Name	Key Features	Price Average	Pros	Cons
Specialized Turbo Levo SL Comp Carbon	Lightweight carbon frame, Specialized SL 1.1 motor, 320Wh internal battery, Mission Control app connectivity	$7,500	Exceptionally lightweight, natural ride feel, customizable assist via app, excellent handling	High price point, smaller battery capacity compared to heavier e-MTBs
Rad Power Bikes RadRover 6 Plus	750W geared hub motor, 672Wh battery, fat tires, integrated lights, hydraulic disc brakes	$1,999	Versatile for various terrains, robust build, accessible price, comfortable ride	Heavier frame, less nimble for technical trails, hub motor feel is different from mid-drive
Trek Allant+ 7	Bosch Performance Line CX motor, 500Wh battery, fender, rack, and light mounts, upright riding position	$3,500	Smooth and powerful Bosch motor, comfortable for commuting, good range, reliable components	Can be heavy, not ideal for off-road adventures, premium price for a commuter
Cannondale Topstone Neo SL 2	Mahle ebikemotion X35 motor, 250Wh battery range extender compatible, carbon fork, gravel-specific geometry	$3,200	Lightweight, sleek integrated motor, excellent for gravel and road, natural unassisted feel	Smaller battery means shorter range without extender, less power for very steep climbs
Gazelle Ultimate C380 HMB	Bosch Performance Line motor, 500Wh battery, Enviolo stepless shifting, belt drive	$4,000	Extremely smooth and quiet ride, low maintenance belt drive, premium comfort, upright Dutch-style	Heavier, less sporty feel, higher price point
Giant Explore E+ 2 GTS	Giant SyncDrive Sport motor Yamaha-based, 500Wh battery, front suspension, integrated rack/fenders	$2,800	Powerful motor, comfortable for touring/commuting, good value, reliable system	Design can be a bit generic, less nimble than lighter options
Aventon Level.2	500W rear hub motor peak 750W, 672Wh battery, torque sensor, integrated lights/fenders/rack	$1,799	Excellent value, torque sensor provides natural assist, comfortable for commuting, good range	Heavier than some competitors, hub motor feel can be less refined than mid-drives

Understanding pedal assist levels is critical to getting the most out of your e-bike.

It’s not just about how fast you go, but how efficiently you ride, how much battery you conserve, and how much fun you have.

Let’s dive deeper into what these levels mean and how to master them.

Table of Contents

The Spectrum of Pedal Assist: From Eco to Turbo

When you hop on an e-bike, you’ll typically find a control panel or display that allows you to select your desired pedal assist level. These levels represent a percentage of the motor’s maximum power output, augmenting your human input. The names might vary between manufacturers—like “Eco,” “Tour,” “Sport,” “Turbo” for Bosch systems, or numbered levels from 1 to 5—but the underlying principle remains the same: more assist means more motor power, less assist means more reliance on your legs.

Decoding Common Pedal Assist Modes

Most e-bikes offer at least three to five distinct pedal assist levels.

Let’s break down the general characteristics of each:

Eco Mode or Level 1: This is the most conservative setting, designed for maximum battery range.
- Motor output: Provides a subtle boost, typically around 25-50% of the motor’s full power.
- Best for: Flat terrain, long rides where battery conservation is paramount, light headwinds, or when you want a substantial workout. It feels like a gentle tailwind, just enough to make pedaling less strenuous than on a conventional bike.
- Example: On a Bosch system, Eco mode might provide around 50% assist. If you’re putting in 100 watts of effort, the motor adds another 50 watts.
Tour Mode or Level 2: A balanced mode, offering a good mix of power and efficiency.
- Motor output: Usually in the 75-150% range relative to your pedal input.
- Best for: Mixed terrain, daily commutes, moderate hills, or when you want a noticeable boost without draining the battery too quickly. It’s often the go-to setting for many riders.
- Statistic: Many recreational e-bike riders spend 60-70% of their ride time in Tour or its equivalent mode.
Sport Mode or Level 3: This level kicks things up a notch, providing a significant power boost for faster acceleration and easier climbing.
- Motor output: Often in the 150-250% range.
- Best for: Steep hills, keeping pace with faster riders, getting up to speed quickly from a stop, or when you’re carrying a heavy load. You’ll feel a substantial push.
- Consideration: Battery consumption increases significantly in Sport mode.
Turbo Mode or Level 4/5: The maximum power setting, unleashing the full potential of the motor.
- Motor output: Provides 250-400% or more of your pedal input, depending on the motor.
- Best for: Conquering the steepest hills, rapid acceleration, overcoming strong headwind, or simply enjoying the sensation of effortless speed.
- Warning: This mode drains the battery fastest. Use sparingly if range is a concern.
- Example: A 250-watt Bosch Performance Line CX motor in Turbo mode can provide over 300% assistance, translating to a substantial power output for climbing.

The Nuance of Adaptive Modes

Some advanced e-bike systems, particularly those with torque sensors, offer adaptive or “eMTB” modes.

Sleeping With Socks On Benefits

These modes dynamically adjust the motor’s power output based on your pedaling force and the terrain.

How it works: Instead of a fixed assist percentage, the system continuously analyzes your input and the bike’s needs, providing seamless power delivery.
Benefits: This creates a highly intuitive and natural riding experience, as the bike feels like it’s anticipating your needs. It can also optimize battery usage by only providing power when truly necessary.
Popular example: Bosch’s “eMTB” mode automatically transitions between Tour and Turbo levels, offering precise power without constant manual adjustments. This is particularly valuable on technical trails where maintaining momentum is crucial.

Torque vs. Cadence Sensors: The Heart of Pedal Assist

The responsiveness and feel of pedal assist are largely determined by the type of sensor an e-bike uses. The two primary types are torque sensors and cadence sensors. Understanding their differences is key to appreciating how your e-bike delivers power.

Cadence Sensors: The On/Off Switch

Cadence sensor systems are typically found on more entry-level or value-oriented e-bikes.

How they work: A cadence sensor detects when the pedals are turning. Once rotation is detected, the motor engages and provides a pre-set amount of power for the chosen assist level.
Pros:
- Affordable: Simpler technology generally means lower manufacturing costs.
- Consistent power: Once engaged, the motor delivers consistent power regardless of how hard you’re pedaling, which can be beneficial for riders who want minimal effort.
- Reliable: Less complex, so fewer things can go wrong.
Cons:
- Less intuitive: The power delivery can feel somewhat “on-off” or abrupt. You might feel a surge of power even if you’re only lightly pedaling.
- Delayed engagement: There’s often a slight lag between when you start pedaling and when the motor kicks in.
- No proportionality: The motor doesn’t differentiate between a light pedal stroke and a powerful one. It just knows you’re pedaling.
Best for: Casual riders, commuters on flat terrain, or those on a tighter budget who prioritize consistent, predictable power.

Torque Sensors: The Smart Power Meter

Torque sensor systems are generally found on mid-range to high-end e-bikes and are often praised for their natural and intuitive feel.

How they work: A torque sensor measures the force or pressure you apply to the pedals. The motor then provides assistance proportionally to your effort. The harder you pedal, the more power the motor delivers up to the selected assist level’s maximum.
- Natural feel: Power delivery is smooth, immediate, and feels like an extension of your own leg power. It truly feels like “you, but stronger.”
- Proportional assistance: The motor responds directly to your effort, making climbing and accelerating feel very intuitive.
- Better battery management: By only adding power when you’re putting in effort, torque sensors can often lead to more efficient battery usage.
- Enhanced control: Especially on technical terrain, the precise power modulation offers superior control.
- More expensive: The technology is more complex and precise, leading to higher bike costs.
- Requires more rider input: Since the motor assistance is proportional to your effort, you still need to pedal with some force to get significant assistance.
Best for: Enthusiastic riders, mountain bikers, road cyclists, and anyone who wants the most seamless and natural e-bike riding experience possible. Many premium e-bikes, like those with Bosch, Shimano STEPS, or Specialized motors, utilize torque sensing.

The Impact on Your Ride

The choice between sensor types significantly impacts the riding experience. A cadence sensor bike might feel like it’s dragging you along, while a torque sensor bike feels like it’s amplifying your own strength. For riders seeking a genuine “bike-like” feel with an added boost, a torque sensor is almost always the preferred choice. However, for those who simply want to get from A to B with minimal effort, a cadence sensor bike can still be a perfectly viable and enjoyable option. Horizon T101 Programs

Optimizing Your Ride: When and Why to Change Levels

Mastering pedal assist levels isn’t just about choosing one and sticking with it.

It’s about dynamically adjusting to the terrain, your energy levels, and your desired outcome for the ride.

Think of your pedal assist levels as gears for your motor—you wouldn’t stay in the same gear uphill and downhill, would you?

Adapting to Terrain

Starting from a stop: Briefly bump up to a higher assist level Sport or Turbo to get going quickly and safely, especially in traffic. This helps you accelerate smoothly without wobbling.
Flat roads: Often, Eco or Tour mode is sufficient. You get a nice boost while conserving battery and still getting a good workout. If you encounter a headwind, you might temporarily increase the assist.
Uphill climbs: This is where higher assist levels shine.
- For gentle slopes, Tour or Sport mode might be enough.
- For steep gradients, don’t hesitate to use Turbo mode. It’s designed for this! It will save your knees, maintain momentum, and make seemingly impossible climbs feel effortless.
- Example: Conquering a 15% grade hill on a RadRover 6 Plus might require Turbo mode, whereas on a gently sloping bike path, Eco mode is perfect.
Downhill sections: Often, you can turn the assist off entirely or switch to Eco mode. Gravity is your friend here, and you’re likely exceeding the motor’s assistance cutoff speed anyway typically 20 mph in the US. This also helps regenerate some battery on bikes with regenerative braking, though this feature is less common.

Managing Battery Life

Battery anxiety is real, especially on longer rides.

Your pedal assist choices directly impact your range. Carry Carry On

Maximizing range: Prioritize Eco mode. The less work the motor does, the longer your battery lasts.
- Tip: If you have a larger battery e.g., 600Wh+, you have more flexibility, but still, higher assist modes will drain it faster. A 500Wh battery might give you 50-80 miles in Eco, but only 20-30 miles in Turbo.
Mid-ride adjustments: If you notice your battery percentage dropping faster than anticipated, scale back your assist level. Sometimes, dropping from Sport to Tour can add significant miles to your remaining range.
Monitoring: Regularly check your e-bike display for battery life and estimated remaining range. Many modern displays are quite accurate and will adjust the estimated range based on your current assist level and riding style.

Considering Your Energy and Goals

Workout: If you’re looking for a good workout, stick to lower assist levels or even turn the assist off. This forces you to use more of your own muscle power.
Leisurely ride: For a relaxed cruise, Tour or Sport mode might be ideal, allowing you to enjoy the scenery without breaking a sweat.
Commuting: Balance speed with battery life. You might use higher assist levels for the first half of your commute to get to work quickly, then conserve battery on the way home, or vice versa depending on your energy levels.
Carrying cargo/passengers: When hauling groceries or a child, higher assist levels become invaluable for managing the extra weight and maintaining momentum.

Pro Tip: Don’t be afraid to experiment! The best way to learn how to use your e-bike’s pedal assist levels is to try them out in different situations. You’ll quickly develop a feel for what works best for you and your specific bike.

Regenerative Braking and Pedal Assist: A Synergistic Duo?

Regenerative braking, a feature more common in electric cars and trains, allows an electric motor to act as a generator when slowing down, converting kinetic energy back into electrical energy to recharge the battery.

While it sounds like a perfect match for e-bikes, its implementation and effectiveness in the e-bike world are often misunderstood.

How Regenerative Braking Works The Theory

When you apply the brakes or coast downhill, the motor’s rotation is used to generate electricity.
This electricity is then fed back into the battery, slightly extending the range or, more commonly, mitigating battery drain during descents.
It typically results in a subtle braking force, often described as a “drag” or “engine braking” feel.

The Reality on E-Bikes

Despite the theoretical benefits, regenerative braking is rare on e-bikes, and when present, its impact is often minimal.

Energy recovery efficiency: E-bike batteries and motors are relatively small compared to electric vehicles. The amount of energy recovered during braking or coasting is often quite low, usually just a few percentage points of the total battery capacity over a typical ride.
Motor type:
- Mid-drive motors: These motors are located at the bottom bracket and drive the chain. They are generally not designed for effective regenerative braking because they are mechanically separated from the wheel during coasting or braking unless special clutches or gears are implemented, which adds complexity and cost.
- Hub motors: These motors are integrated directly into the front or rear wheel. They are technically capable of regenerative braking because the wheel’s rotation directly drives the motor. However, even with hub motors, the efficiency of energy capture is limited by the weight of the bike, the speed, and the length of the descent.
Cost and complexity: Adding effective regenerative braking systems increases the cost and complexity of the e-bike, which manufacturers often try to avoid for consumer-grade models. It requires specific motor designs, controllers, and battery management systems.
Riding style: For regenerative braking to be effective, you need long, continuous descents where you’re coasting or lightly braking for extended periods. In urban environments with frequent stop-and-go traffic, the opportunities for significant energy recovery are limited.

Synergistic Duo with Pedal Assist?

While direct synergy is limited due to the rarity of robust regen systems, understanding assist levels still plays a role: Bbq Top Grill

Downhill Management: On bikes without regenerative braking, you’ll simply turn pedal assist off when going downhill. There’s no benefit to having the motor engaged, and it will only unnecessarily consume power if you accidentally pedal above the cutoff speed.
Battery Optimisation: If you do have an e-bike with regenerative braking e.g., some older BionX systems or specialized cargo bikes, then combining it with smart pedal assist management becomes more impactful. You’d use lower assist levels on flats/climbs to conserve power and maximize the slight gains from regenerative braking on descents.

In summary: While regenerative braking is a fascinating concept, it’s not a common or significant feature on the vast majority of consumer e-bikes. Focus your energy optimization efforts on judicious use of your pedal assist levels rather than relying on energy recovery from braking.

The Legal Landscape: Speed Limits and Assist Cutoffs

The legal framework for e-bikes, particularly concerning speed and motor assistance, is crucial for both rider safety and compliance.

In the United States, e-bikes are primarily categorized into three classes, largely based on their top assisted speed and throttle capability.

Understanding these classifications is vital before you hit the road.

E-Bike Classification in the United States

The three-class system helps define where e-bikes can be ridden e.g., bike paths, roads, trails and what regulations apply. Difference Between Down And Feather Pillows

Class 1 E-Bike:
- Definition: Pedal-assist only, with no throttle.
- Motor assistance cutoff: The motor provides assistance only when the rider is pedaling, and ceases to provide assistance when the bike reaches 20 mph 32 km/h.
- Legality: Generally allowed wherever traditional bicycles are permitted, including bike paths, multi-use trails, and roads. This is the most widely accepted class.
- Example: Many lightweight commuter e-bikes and urban models fall into this category.
Class 2 E-Bike:
- Definition: Equipped with a throttle that can power the bike independently of pedaling.
- Motor assistance cutoff: The motor ceases to provide assistance whether via throttle or pedal assist when the bike reaches 20 mph 32 km/h.
- Legality: Often treated similarly to Class 1, but some jurisdictions may restrict throttle-only use on certain trails or paths.
- Example: Many cruiser-style e-bikes and some fat-tire models offer both pedal assist and a throttle. The Aventon Level.2 is a prime example of a Class 2 e-bike.
Class 3 E-Bike:
- Motor assistance cutoff: The motor provides assistance only when the rider is pedaling, and ceases to provide assistance when the bike reaches 28 mph 45 km/h.
- Legality: Generally restricted to roads and designated bike lanes. They are often prohibited on multi-use paths and trails, although this can vary by local ordinance. Riders are typically required to be 16 years or older and wear a helmet in many states.
- Example: Performance-oriented e-bikes designed for faster commuting often fall into this class.
Important Note: Some states or municipalities may have their own unique classifications or rules that supersede or add to these federal guidelines. Always check local laws before riding.

Implications for Pedal Assist Levels

The class designation directly impacts how pedal assist levels feel at higher speeds:

Beyond the Cutoff: Once you exceed the motor’s assistance cutoff speed 20 mph for Class 1/2, 28 mph for Class 3, all pedal assist levels effectively provide zero assistance. The motor disengages. At this point, you’re riding a heavier bicycle under your own power.
Choosing Your Class:
- If you primarily ride on bike paths and trails and value universal access, a Class 1 or Class 2 without heavy throttle reliance is likely your best bet.
- If faster commutes on roads are your priority and you’re comfortable with potential trail restrictions, a Class 3 can offer a significant speed advantage.
Safety and Control: Even with higher assist levels, it’s crucial to ride within your capabilities and maintain control. Just because the bike can go fast doesn’t mean you should always ride at maximum speed, especially in traffic or crowded areas.

Understanding these classifications ensures you ride legally and safely, maximizing your e-bike experience within the bounds of local regulations.

Maintaining Your System: Care for Optimal Assist Performance

Just like any other vehicle, an e-bike’s pedal assist system—motor, battery, sensors, and display—requires proper care to ensure optimal performance, longevity, and safety.

Neglecting maintenance can lead to reduced efficiency, error codes, and even costly repairs.

Battery Care: The Powerhouse

The battery is arguably the most critical component of your e-bike’s pedal assist system. American Made Squat Rack

Proper care significantly impacts its lifespan and performance.

Charging Habits:
- Avoid deep discharges: Don’t let your battery consistently drain to 0%. Try to recharge it before it gets critically low.
- Don’t overcharge: Modern batteries have management systems that prevent overcharging, but leaving it plugged in for weeks on end isn’t ideal. Unplug once fully charged.
- Use the original charger: Aftermarket chargers might have different voltage or amperage, potentially damaging the battery.
Storage:
- Temperature: Store the battery in a cool, dry place, ideally between 50-68°F 10-20°C. Extreme heat or cold can degrade the cells.
- Charge level for storage: If storing for an extended period more than a month, charge the battery to 50-70% capacity. Check it every few months and top it up if it drops significantly.
- Remove from bike: If possible, remove the battery from the bike for long-term storage to prevent parasitic drain.
Cleaning: Use a damp cloth to wipe down the battery casing and charging port contacts. Ensure the contacts are dry before reconnecting or charging. Avoid spraying water directly onto the battery or contacts.

Motor and Sensor Maintenance

While motors are generally sealed units, some basic care can prevent issues.

Keep it clean: Regularly wipe down the motor casing to remove dirt and grime. Avoid high-pressure washing directly on the motor or electrical connections.
Listen for unusual noises: Any new grinding, whining, or clicking sounds from the motor should be investigated by a qualified technician.
Sensor cleanliness especially cadence sensors: If your bike has an external cadence sensor often a magnet on the crank arm and a sensor on the frame, ensure they are clean and properly aligned. Dirt or misalignment can lead to inconsistent or non-existent assist. Torque sensors are typically integrated into the bottom bracket and require less external maintenance.
Wiring integrity: Periodically check all visible wires and connectors for frays, pinches, or loose connections. Secure any loose cables.

Display and Controls

Protect from elements: While most displays are weather-resistant, avoid prolonged exposure to heavy rain or direct sunlight when parked.
Clean gently: Use a soft, damp cloth to clean the display screen. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive materials.
Check buttons: Ensure all buttons on your control unit for changing assist levels are functioning correctly and aren’t sticky.

Regular Professional Check-ups

Even with diligent home maintenance, a professional e-bike service at least once a year or more frequently if you ride often is highly recommended.

Software updates: E-bike systems often have firmware updates that improve performance, add features, or fix bugs. A bike shop can perform these.
Diagnostic checks: Professionals have tools to run diagnostic checks on your motor, battery, and controller, identifying potential issues before they become major problems.
Component wear: They can inspect gears, bearings, and other internal motor components that aren’t user-serviceable.

By committing to these maintenance practices, you’ll ensure your e-bike’s pedal assist levels remain responsive, efficient, and reliable for years to come, maximizing your riding enjoyment and extending the life of your investment.

Troubleshooting Common Pedal Assist Issues

Even the most reliable e-bikes can sometimes throw a curveball. Be You Reviews

When your pedal assist isn’t working as expected, a systematic approach to troubleshooting can often save you a trip to the bike shop. Here are some common issues and their solutions.

1. No Pedal Assist or Intermittent Power

This is the most common and frustrating issue.

Check the Battery:
- Is it charged? The most obvious, but often overlooked, culprit. Ensure your battery is fully charged.
- Is it properly seated? A loose battery connection can cut power. Remove and re-seat the battery firmly. Listen for a click.
- Are the contacts clean? Corroded or dirty battery terminals can prevent current flow. Clean them gently with a dry cloth or a pencil eraser.
Check the Display/Controller:
- Is the system turned on? Sounds basic, but confirm the display is powered on and showing information.
- Is a pedal assist level selected? Ensure you haven’t accidentally set it to “0” or “Off.”
- Check for error codes: Most displays show error codes e.g., “E010,” “W013”. Consult your e-bike’s manual for what these codes mean. Many indicate specific sensor or communication issues.
Check Sensor Connection Cadence Sensor:
- Is the magnet aligned? If your bike has a cadence sensor with a separate magnet on the crank arm, ensure it’s still attached and correctly aligned with the sensor on the frame. It should pass very close within a few millimeters to the sensor.
- Is the sensor wire damaged? Inspect the wire running from the sensor to the controller for any cuts, pinches, or disconnections.
Check Brake Levers Motor Cut-off Switches:
- Many e-bikes have safety switches in the brake levers that cut motor power when activated. If a brake lever is slightly depressed or misaligned, it might constantly engage this cut-off.
- Solution: Check if your brake lights are subtly on without pressing the brakes. If so, adjust your brake levers or look for sticky mechanisms. Often, simply tapping the brake levers a few times can release a stuck switch.
Check Other Cables: Systematically check all visible cables leading from the motor, battery, and display for secure connections, fraying, or damage. Unplug and re-plug them if possible.

2. Jerky or Inconsistent Assist

This often points to sensor issues or communication problems.

Cadence Sensor Issues:
- Misalignment: Even a slight misalignment of the cadence sensor magnet can cause intermittent power.
- Dirty Sensor: A buildup of dirt can interfere with the sensor’s ability to read the magnet.
Torque Sensor Issues Less Common for DIY Fix:
- If your e-bike uses a torque sensor and the assist feels inconsistent, it might indicate a problem with the sensor itself or its calibration. This usually requires a bike shop with diagnostic tools.
Loose Connections: Re-check all electrical connections as described above. A partially disconnected wire can cause intermittent power.

3. Motor Cutting Out Under Load

This can be a symptom of a few things, often related to power delivery.

Battery Sag: If your battery is old or significantly degraded, it might not be able to deliver enough current under high load, causing the motor to cut out.
- Test: Does the issue occur more frequently when the battery is low, or during steep climbs/heavy acceleration?
- Solution: Consider battery replacement if it’s old and this issue persists.
Overheating: Motors can cut out to prevent overheating, especially on very long, steep climbs in high assist modes.
- Solution: Give the motor time to cool down. Reduce assist level or take a break.
Loose Connections: Again, check all major power connections battery to controller, controller to motor.

4. Assist Not Engaging/Disengaging Smoothly

This relates to the overall feel of the assist. Easy Ways To Make Yourself Fall Asleep

Sensor Type: Remember, cadence sensor bikes inherently have a less smooth engagement than torque sensor bikes. If you have a cadence sensor bike, some jerkiness is normal.
Chain/Drivetrain Issues: A worn chain, misaligned derailleur, or sticky gear shift can cause the bike to feel less smooth, which can be perceived as an assist issue. Ensure your drivetrain is well-maintained and lubricated.
Pedal Assist Level Selection: Ensure you’re selecting the appropriate assist level for the terrain. Trying to climb a steep hill in Eco mode might feel like it’s not engaging smoothly because it’s simply not providing enough power for the effort.

When to Seek Professional Help

If you’ve gone through these troubleshooting steps and the issue persists, it’s time to visit a certified e-bike technician.

They have specialized diagnostic tools and expertise to identify and fix more complex electrical or mechanical issues within the pedal assist system.

Never attempt to open the motor casing or tamper with the internal battery components yourself, as this can be dangerous and void your warranty.undefined

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Pedal Assist Levels